If you want to see a slightly different side of the Bernese Oberland, this overnight trek is a great option. Instead of staying around the busy hubs like Kandersteg or the trails near Mürren, we spent a night in the quieter village of Griesalp, tucked between the two. It turned out to be a rewarding choice, with a peaceful atmosphere and incredible mountain views.

Day One

We started out in Kandersteg, taking a tram up to save a bit of elevation and then heading along the high route above Oeschinensee. The lake, as expected, was popular. Thanks to Instagram and Tiktok, it's become one of the "must see" spots in Switzerland, and an extremely popular day trip from a range of destinations within a short train ride. During peak season (all summer) it's probably worth booking the gondola in advance, since the lines can be long and the trams often fill early in the day. We ended up getting lucky, having completely forgotten that this might be the case, and snagged two spots for our (late) start around noon.

I know the popular social media places get a lot of flack, but there's often a good reason for those crowds, and this is an good example. The lake is honestly spectacular. There's a lot of people, sure, but it seemed like they were mostly concentrated on the main trail that takes you directly to the shore of the lake. Our route took us on the higher path (which also gives you a great angle of the lake from above), and while it was busy, it was manageable. Once we passed the small alp at the far end of the lake and started climbing further up towards the pass, we left the crowds behind.

The route up to the pass is no joke, especially during this Alps heat wave. Eventually, we made to to the Hohtürli Pass, climbing about 4,000ft in just under 5 miles. While the Blüemlisalphütte SAC hut sits just below the saddle and offers a place for weary hikers to rest or overnight if they want to break up the long stage, we began the descent on one of the steepest staircase-style trails I have ever seen, a dramatic set of switchbacks dropping down toward the Kiental.

Booking huts ahead of time along this route is essential in high season, since they can fill quickly and provide important staging points for those who prefer to split the trek into shorter sections. As we were planning and booking pretty last minute, most of the huts along the route were fully booked for the nights we wanted, and so we ended up finding a spot to stay in Griesalp, a small village in the valley on the far side of the pass.The Naturfreundehaus Gorneren sits in a particularly scenic spot, with unobstructed views up the valley toward the peaks we'd crossed earlier in the day. It’s definitely a different vibe here, much quieter than the main tourist centers.

Blüemlisalphütte would have been spectacular, perched right on the pass, but also would have made for a big, steep downhill before climbing back up the next day. There is also the Gspaltenhornhütte, which sits at the back of the Kiental and at the foot of Gspaltenhorn, Kamel and Roti Zend.

Day Two

The next morning, we started early and found the second day’s hike a bit easier, probably because we stayed in the shade for most of the morning. From Griessalp the route climbs steadily toward the Sefinenfurgge Pass at about 2600 meters, a narrow saddle between towering ridges. The path winds along a high plateau with sweeping views of the Blüemlisalp massif behind us and the peaks of the Lauterbrunnen valley ahead.

At the pass, you're treated to the first views of the Monch, Eiger, and Jungfrau–some of the most iconic peaks in all of Europe.

You'll pass Rotstockhütte on the downhill from the pass, you can rest, grab a snack, or even stop for a cold beverage. We decided to save our legs from the additional downhill all the way to Lauterbrunnen and instead had a pretty leisurely dowward traverse into Mürren. Mürren feels a bit like a mountain Disneyland, lots of people, lots of day trippers. We walked around for a bit before wrapping up the journey by taking the gondola to bus to train back to Interlaken.

In the end, this two-day trek felt like a great way to experience the Bernese Oberland beyond the usual hotspots. It’s scenic, it’s a bit quieter, and it still hits some of the highlights of this incredible region.

Tip: you can send extra luggage via train almost anywhere in Switzerland. It's 10 euro per bag, and you can pick it up in two days at the train station of your choice. In our case, we dropped a bag off in Visp on our way to Kandersteg, and the picked it up in Engelberg (where we headed after this hike).